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Earlier this summer, audiences got their first glimpse of Lady Gaga as the infamous Patrizia Reggiani in the High Tragedy Gucci House (released later this month) when the studio tweeted a photo featuring the star with her frosty burgundy icy lips and dyed hair as dark as shoe polish and fluffy as soufflé. Gaga wore a mink coat and, underneath, a leather-trimmed tunic in Gucci’s signature canvas monogram. In short, she appeared quite the Ms. Gucci that Reggiani herself had plotted and conspired to be before hiring a hitman in 1995 to shoot her husband, Maurizio Gucci (played by Adam Driver), a descendant of Gucci fortune. (When asked by a reporter why she hadn’t done the job herself, Reggiani replied, “My eyesight isn’t that good, I didn’t want to miss it.â€)
The movie Can’t Do This Stuff, directed by Ridley Scott, is set primarily in the early 1990s, long before Alessandro Michele preached geek chic to his followers and just before Tom Ford repositioned the waist on our tailbones. . At the time, Gucci had lost its luster due to overexposure.
Costume designer Janty Yates “bought a huge amount of Gucci on eBay and online at Vestiaire Collective to model on a mannequin and show off to Ridley,” she says, but Gaga then came over and upped the stakes. (Yates remembers the fittings that lasted up to five hours.)
In the character, Gaga speaks with an Italian accent deliberately devoid of romance, dressed in square dresses with gold buttons and silk blouses with a bow tie. Her wardrobe is a mix of vintage and period finds: two pieces come from the Gucci archives (unlike some members of the Gucci family, the house supported production), and a silver chain mail look has been on loan from Mrs. Gaga herself. Janty also called in high jewelry houses like Bulgari and Boucheron and asked to be loaned pieces. She knew costume jewelry wouldn’t do. (As Reggiani once joked, “It’s better to cry in a Rolls-Royce than to be happy on a bike.”)
Since the release of this first Gaga image, interest in this era of Gucci has grown steadily: Gucci has even reissued this same tunic, a design from 1969 taken from the archives. “It’s hard to find a Gucci pre-Tom Ford,†says Cherie Balch, the dealer behind vintage online destination Shrimpton Couture.
Get the authentic Gucci House look, so, go take some strategy. That said, 1stdibs, Vestiaire and Etsy have treasures of red and green striped hobo bags and bamboo handle satchels from the 1960s to the 90s. (Vintage tip: inside the handbags, the Gucci logo must mostly appear in script, not the Ford reign serif typeface.)
Back at Gucci’s headquarters in Milan, the brand is constantly looking for inspiration in its archives – think of the recent reissue of the Diana bag and Harry Styles’ famous appropriation of the Jackie bag. During Gucci’s century-old Aria collection this spring, the runway showcased the flora print designed for Grace Kelly in 1966 and Ford’s almost lustful red velvet suit. Will Gaga’s outfits continue to fuel the vintage craze? It’s pretty Gucci.
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